Rolling countryside, historic farmhouses, and the Port Oneida Historic District and Glen Haven area highlight the rich history of the Sleeping Bear Dunes region.
Historic preservation groups and history museums help tell the story of Leelanau’s farming, logging, and maritime heritage. Bicycle trails and tours take visitors across the region’s rural landscape to imagine a simpler way of life in the early 19th century.
It’s easy to overlook the history as you drive along M-22. But if you enjoy a slower pace, or consider yourself a history buff, there is plenty to see and do.
Visit a museum, take a wagon ride, or bicycle the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail to experience a different side of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
Preserving history in the park
Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear, a nonprofit preservation partner of the park, helps preserve and interpret more than 350 buildings, cemeteries, and farmsteads throughout the National Lakeshore.
The nonprofit is celebrating 25 years of partnering with the National Park Service this year, says Susan Pocklington, Executive Director.
The organization offers a variety of programs and public events to highlight the history and ongoing preservation efforts.
“We’re offering family-friendly experiences beyond the dunes,” Pocklington says. “When people have done the beach and the hikes, we’re something that is different and you learn a lot in a fun way.”
Bike tours and wagon rides depart from Port Oneida Heritage Center and give visitors insights into the early pioneers and Anishinaabe people of the region. The visitor center is at the Charles Olsen farm, 3164 W. Harbor Hwy., Maple City.
“It’s really an educational experience and a way to immerse people onto the landscape,” Pocklington says. “It’s so much more of a complete history and a richer experience if you have both the buildings and you’re also telling the history of who lived there.”
Port Oneida highlights early settlers
North of Glen Arbor, the Port Oneida Rural Historic District is the largest agricultural district in the nation.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places for its significance in agriculture and ethnic heritage, the Port Oneida district includes 22 farmsteads, two cemeteries, two schoolhouses, a log structure, and barns.
“We’re not talking about mansions,” Pocklington says. “These are farm buildings and barns. The Port Oneida Historic District is the largest publicly owned rural historic landscape in the country.”
Visitors can tour the inside of the Charles and Hattie Olsen Farmhouse and barn to learn about early pioneers in the region. You can explore the grounds and view the kitchen and perennial gardens.
Other exhibits highlight the Native American and pioneer settlers who lived in the Port Oneida area and the Manitou Islands in the 1800s. Some other buildings in the district are open during special programs and for people on the bike tours.
“They were farmers; that’s how they survived,” Pocklington says. “It’s about stories of where we all came from, our common thread, our common history.”
Horse and Wagon Tours
Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear has offered wagon rides for a decade as a way to reawaken the area’s history. Visitors can hop aboard a horse-drawn wagon and experience the Port Oneida district the way they did in the late 1800s.
“It’s nice because on Port Oneida Road we talk about where the port used to be and the whole history of the first settlers,” Pocklington says. “We also weave into the tour information about our natural resources and Anishinaabe history.”
Two Belgian horses, Mick and May, lead the way through the fields, side roads, and pastoral landscapes. The narrated tour lasts about 1 hour and 15 minutes. You will learn about the life of the early pioneers and this significant agricultural community, along with seeing beautiful vistas and farmsteads near Lake Michigan.
“It’s really enjoyable for those people who aren’t into biking or as mobile and also for families,” Pocklington says. “We do have a treasure hunt for the younger kids to keep them engaged.”
Tour details:
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3:30 p.m. and 5 p.m. on Thursdays through August 29 and into the fall.
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Cost: $30 adults; $20 children 4-12. Children 3 and under on parent or guardian laps are free.
It is recommended to arrive 15 minutes early, plus allow time before or after the tour to explore the exhibits in the Port Oneida Heritage Center.
Group rentals are also available for the regular Thursday ride or by appointment on different days. You can rent the entire wagon for your family or event. Cost: $392. Call 231-640-0148 to make a reservation.
For more information or to book a tour, visit Horse & Wagon Tours - Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear.
Historic Bicycle Tours
Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear also offers several bicycle tours, which give riders the chance to stop and tour some of the historic buildings. Bicyclists wear walkie-talkies so they can listen to the guide narrate the scene while riding.
Visitors can bring their own bicycles or rent bicycles for a discounted rate through The Cyclery in Glen Arbor.
Biking a By-Gone Era
The Biking a By-Gone Era tour goes past farms and pastures into the heart of Port Oneida.
The 5.5-mile bike ride includes five stops of interest, unique views of Lake Michigan, and the chance to look inside some of the farm buildings.
You will hear about folklore, shipwrecks and pirates, and how the land was used through time. The tour includes stops to rest and narration along the way. Moderate level of difficulty with rustic back roads and gravel roads.
Tour details:
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Thursdays, 9:30 a.m.-noon through Aug. 29
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Cost: $25 per adult/$15 per child ages 10-17
Peddling Port Oneida’s Past
This 4.5-mile guided tour explores the hidden gems of Sleeping Bear’s pioneer heritage. The bike ride covers easy terrain, making it great for families and all skill levels.
The ride goes by scenic pastures and farmsteads in the Port Oneida Rural Historic District. You can learn about spirit holes, tragedies of the times, the people who lived here, and how they forged a life from the wilderness.
Tour details:
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Tuesdays, 9:30-11:30 a.m. through Aug. 27
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Cost: $25 per adult/$15 per child ages 8-17
Secrets of D.H. Day’s Kingdom and Beyond
If you enjoy legends and lore, the Secrets of D.H. Day’s Kingdom and Beyond tour includes a behind-the-scenes look at secrets and unfamiliar facts about the baron of Glen Haven – D.H. Day.
Participants will also learn about the surrounding dunes area: the railroad, the “ovens,” alligator hill, riparian rights, a sawmill, the historic Great Lakes Picnic area, dune formations, lumberjacks, and Pierce Stocking and D.H. Day’s grand vision for the area.
While considered easy, this 8-mile tour is mostly level terrain on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail and Port Oneida Road). It is not suitable for children under age 7.
“It’s a very different script and story to tell,” Pocklington says. “It takes you back to some back roads. It's a really cool tour.”
Tour details:
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Fridays 9 a.m.-noon through Aug. 30.
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Start and end in Glen Arbor at the Heritage Trail Alligator Hill Trailhead
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Cost: $25 per adult/$15 per child ages 8-17
To book a bicycle tour, visit Historic Bike Tours - Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear.
Port Oneida Fair
Step back in time at the Port Oneida Fair and experience life as it was from the 1850s to the early 1940s.
The Port Oneida Fair highlights the life of the pioneers, farm work, and traditional crafts. Attendees can learn about spinning, basket weaving, soap making, butter making, candle dipping, and fur trapping.
Park rangers and local history experts will be on hand to share the area’s history. Watch as teams of oxen and horses work on the farm and artists and craftsmen demonstrate their skills.
Fair details:
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Fair runs 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Aug. 9-10
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Held at five of the historic farmsteads in Port Oneida
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Farms have a variety of artists, demos, food, and activities
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Participate in historic games, barn, and home tours
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Horse and wagon ride between the Olsen and Dechow Farms
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Live music and traditional crafts
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Shuttle bus runs between the farms
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Star Party, 9-11 pm, Aug. 10 at Thoreson Farm
For more information, visit Port Oneida Fair (U.S. National Park Service).
Big Band By the Barn
This fun night of swing music is a celebration of Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear’s 25-year partnership with Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
Come dine and dance swing, ballroom, or toe tap at your table. Gather under a tent by the big red barn at the historic Olsen Farm. The evening features live music by River City Jazz Band from Grand Rapids, an 11-piece band playing tunes from the 1920s-40s era.
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5-9:30 p.m. Thursday, August 15
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Social hour and free swing lessons
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Costume contest
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Silent art auction
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Port Oneida Heritage Center at Olsen Farm
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1920s-40s dress encouraged but not required
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Tickets: $72 includes appetizers, catered dinner, 1 wine and 2 mocktail tickets, and free swing dance lessons.
To purchase tickets, visit Big Band by the Barn - Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear.
Proceeds support the preservation and interpretation of the 300 historic structures and heritage in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.
To learn more about how you can support preservation in the park, visit Preserve Historic Sleeping Bear.
Visit area history museums
Beyond the National Lakeshore’s historic districts, the Leelanau Peninsula has a variety of museums dedicated to local history.
Empire Area Museum Center: This museum complex, at 11544 LaCore Street, includes the Main Museum, School House, Blacksmith Shop, Beeman Barn, 1911 Hose House, and Roen’s Saloon. August hours: Tuesday-Saturday 1-4 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. (231) 326-5519
Fishtown Preservation Society: A trip to historic Fishtown gives visitors the chance to experience weathered fishing shanties, smokehouses, fish tugs, and charter boats along the Leland River in Leland. Fishtown Preservation Society promotes public access to Fishtown and ensures its historical integrity, working waterfront, artifacts, and stories. (231) 256-8878
Inland Seas Education Center: The Inland Seas Education Association (ISEA) provides learners of all ages with hands-on experiences aboard traditionally-rigged tall ship schooners, along the shores of the Great Lakes, and in local rivers, streams, and wetlands. Trips depart out of Suttons Bay. View the schedule and buy tickets at https://fareharbor.com/schoolship/items/calendar/2024/08/. (231) 271-3077
Leelanau Historical Museum: The museum sits on the banks of the Leland River, at 203 E. Cedar St., next to the township library in Leland. Visitors can learn about the history of Sugar Loaf Ski Resort, Shipwrecks of the Manitou Passage, Lighthouses of Leelanau, Great Lakes Fur Trading, Traditional Anishinaabek Arts Room, and Historic Leland. The museum is home to the Society’s offices, a research center, and archives. Hours (June-October): 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday. (231) 256-7475
Sleeping Bear Maritime Museum: Housed in the Sleeping Bear Point U.S. Life-Saving Service Station, the museum highlights the U.S. Life-Saving Service, U.S. Coast Guard, and Great Lakes shipping. The collection includes artifacts from ships and boats, books, plans, photographs, and navigation instruments. The boathouse displays the life-saving equipment used during the early 1900s. Open daily, 11 a.m.-5 p.m., through Labor Day weekend in Glen Haven. (231) 326-4700.
Marla R. Miller is a freelance travel writer, content writer, and journalist who enjoys exploring the Sleeping Bear area. Visit her website at marlarmiller.com.